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Thread: Nikon SB-28 fires only at the second frame

  1. #31
    Administrator -jeff's Avatar
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    Hi Kevin......It almost sounds like you left the isolation diodes out of the circuit. Did you use the wiring diagram on the first page of this thread?

  2. #32
    Quote Originally Posted by -jeff View Post
    Hi Kevin......It almost sounds like you left the isolation diodes out of the circuit. Did you use the wiring diagram on the first page of this thread?
    Hi Jeff,

    No I haven't used the isolation diodes (yet!) - when you said the diode isolates the other flashes if one fails I wasn't sure if you meant permanently fail (as in die completely) or just temporarily stop working?. Having brought the whole set up inside for the last two days and nights it has been working just fine.........it's getting damp at night here outside now and I did wonder if moisture was affecting the flashes as they are not in sealed boxes now?

    On another matter if I wire exactly as Emmanuel's book (using the 3 pin port in the SB-24) that also works but the last flash seems to stay awake, I think one of the pins on the camera hotshoe needs masking off but I'm not sure which one, any ideas?

    Many Thanks

  3. #33
    Administrator -jeff's Avatar
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    Give the diodes a try.

    I don't have the Emmanuel book so I can't answer your second question.

  4. #34
    For the benefit of others, taping over the unused pins on the camera hotshoe seems to stop the flashes cutting out over night. I can't explain why this seems to work but it reflects Tom Mason's comments in his camera trap video where he refers to Emmanual's book and Nikon cameras.

    Camera trap has been running fine for a fortnight now no problems.DSC_E0540.jpg DSC_2054 HD.jpg

    Thanks all.

  5. #35
    Hi Kevininbath, could you share pics of the things you taped off ? I was also reading TOm Mason comments on his YouTube channel. He shows, not very clear, where he tapes off the ground pin on this hotshoe that sits on the camera

    Thanks

  6. #36
    Hi Kevin, great Fox image. So the only other thing you had to do to your Nikon set up other than blank off the unused ports is rewire the AS-10?

    King regards,
    Tom

  7. #37
    Hi Tom / Daniel,

    Sorry I've not been here for a while, hopefully this rough sketch illustrates my solution.

    The flash-1 hotshoe connector (on the end of the SC-17) was fairly easy to re-solder and move a wake signal onto the unused quench output pin for the SC-26/27 socket and cable to flash-2. However, the quench and ready pins back to the camera are still connected at flash-1 inside the SC-17 hotshoe hence electrical tape to isolate these at the camera hotshoe. Re-soldering the cable and pin inside the AS-10 for flash-2 was a bit tricky, the plastic around the pin melts very easily but the same logic here - ie transfer the incoming trigger/ground/wake signals carried by the SC-27 sync cable to the correct pins on the SC-10 hotshoe.

    Flash Hardwire.jpg

    Another fox captured using this set-up
    DSC_1949-Edit Ltrm.jpg

  8. #38
    Administrator -jeff's Avatar
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    Thanks for the update Kevin. Looks like you have it figured out.

  9. #39
    Hi, I am a new to cameratraping
    Have read all info, but still have not understood the problem.
    Wanted to have a simple system, but looks like I have jumped in problems
    So the problem is that second flash SB28 is not firing with first shot but in first shot it wakes up from stand by. If shutter is halfprest it wakes up first flash, but second is not waking up.
    After first shot, when both SB 28 are waked up, both are firing
    So setup i use is nikon d3300 with SC 28 cable to first flash, from first flash to second goes SC26 multi-flash cord and enters in AS 10.
    is there some simple way to wake up second flash for first shot?
    Thank you a lot for helping

  10. #40
    Administrator -jeff's Avatar
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    Hi Janis


    A couple things to try......switch the flashes to see if the problem follows the flash. If it does then you have a problem with one flash. If the problem happens when you have either flash connected to the SC26, then the problem is in one wire in the SC26 cable or in the AS10.

    When you half press the shutter, the camera sends about 3 volts to the wake pin on the SB28. If you have a volt meter, ground the black lead and touch the positive lead to the wake pin on the SC28 and SC26. Half press the shutter and you should see the same voltage on each wake pin. If not, take the AS10 apart and make sure the wires are all connected.

    Hope this helps. Let us know what you figured out.

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