Nikon SB-28 fires only at the second frame

[lynxlynx.ch]

It took me a while to get all the material, but i have finally modified the TF-322.
As you guessed, my "old" 3.5 mm port won't fit so i organised new ones and followed your advice to make pigtails. I soldered a part of the belden cable to ground, handshake and data of the TF-322 and now the first cable is ready and working :-)

TF-322 - modified.jpg

thank you very much Jeff !
I now have only the second part left, to connect the first flash with the second one. I finally found some old SC-19 cable and will solder the the 3 pin plug to one side and on the other end another 3.5 mm jack plug.

[-jeff]

Looks good.

[lynxlynx.ch]

Thank you very much again Jeff - Without your help i guess i would still trying to figuring out how the flash cables working,
I have finally finished the setup last weekend. Unfortunately i couldn't figuring out how to use the SC-19 cable, but it doesn't matter anymore. There is no need for this kind of cable anymore. I modified some more TF-322 like seen on the above post and soldered 3 7m long jack cables and a shorter 2 m.

IMG-3318.jpg

As the SC-19 cable didn't work i remembered that i hat this Stereo splitter for hearing the same music from one music Player on two headphones. I tested it with the two flashes and 3 cables and it worked .
I bought an ABS box and created my own splitter with 4 3.5 mm jack ports, for connecting 3 flashes to it.

IMG-3319.jpg

IMG-3321.jpg

I have tested the setup the whole sunday on the terrace and will put it back in the woods again next weekend.

So thank you again for your huge help !

Kind regards from Switzerland

Lars

[-jeff]

Excellent. Looking forward to some great images!

[swisscore]

I had the same problem with my YN-560 III and I do an electronic PCB to take 2 pictures per trigger, like this at least the second one is flashing

[lynxlynx.ch]

That's interesting. I tried to use Yognuo YN-560 III and 560 IV but couldn't ever wake them up again. Do you have some schematics ?

[KennethW]

I use Youngnuo RF 603 II wireless triggers since one and a half year. No issues other than the short battery life without extending it somehow. I soldered a connector to i so i now have several weeks or more standby time. I use 2-3 SB-28 with a Nikon D200 and a D3200.

Sometimes i alos use a SC-17 cord and that works for one flash.

[Zuppi]

Emmanuel Rondeau sells an eBook with excellent information about camera trapping in general, but also the description how to attach flash units in such a way that they wake up on the first shot. Its geared towards Canon camera with Nikon SB-28 flashes, but I guess it would be the same for other brands (except Sony NEX, as I tried recently, it looks that Sony does not have a 'wake-up' signal). I can highly recommend this eBook, it costs only a few Euros.

[-jeff]

Hi Kevin......It almost sounds like you left the isolation diodes out of the circuit. Did you use the wiring diagram on the first page of this thread?

[Kevininbath]

Hi Kevin......It almost sounds like you left the isolation diodes out of the circuit. Did you use the wiring diagram on the first page of this thread?

Hi Jeff,

No I haven't used the isolation diodes (yet!) - when you said the diode isolates the other flashes if one fails I wasn't sure if you meant permanently fail (as in die completely) or just temporarily stop working?. Having brought the whole set up inside for the last two days and nights it has been working just fine.........it's getting damp at night here outside now and I did wonder if moisture was affecting the flashes as they are not in sealed boxes now?

On another matter if I wire exactly as Emmanuel's book (using the 3 pin port in the SB-24) that also works but the last flash seems to stay awake, I think one of the pins on the camera hotshoe needs masking off but I'm not sure which one, any ideas?

Many Thanks