Nikon SB-28 fires only at the second frame

[swisscore]

I tried to follow your instructions, but unfortunately i couldn't fix this issue. I guess i did something wrong. That's why i created a visualisation

Pixel TF-322 Modification.JPG

On the left side is the original cabeling from the Pixel TF-322. Only X-Sync and Ground are connected to the PC Sync Port.
I soldered the Handshake & Data to the Ground Connection of the PC Sync Port. It is still working but always only from the second trigger. What am i missing ? Or what did i wrong ?
Maybe the chaining of my 2 Nikon SB-28 is wrong ? That's why i created a schematic for it...

DSLR Camera trap schematic.jpg

Any ideas ?

thank you very much !

Kind regards

Lars

On your schematic you shortcut some datas transfert wire, you will probably break your DSLR if you try for long time like this... (i think, without know how is made inside DSLR)

[lynxlynx.ch]

thank you for your feedback.
I already fixed that and i replaced the pc sync port with a 3.5 mm jack port.

[KennethW]

Hi,

I use Yognuo RF 603II for my 2-3 SB-28 flash setup. Nikon D200 / D3200
There the flash comes immediately upon the first frame. I modified the 603's to take bigger batteries for longer operatation time. They have worked well in rainstorms, snow and down below -15C in the winter.

[-jeff]

Ok, if I am reading your diagram correctly, you are still using the PC Sync connection? If so, that will not work. To wake and fire the flashes requires three connections and three conductors. The PC Sync connector only has two.

Maybe this image of the inside of the TF-322 will help.

20180521100310-352d7587-me.jpg

Connections:

Ground - Self explainitory

Flash Wake - When the camera shutter button is pressed half way down, the camera sends a positive voltage (about +2 volts) to this pin on the hot shoe to wake the flash.

Flash Fire - This connection on the hot shoe is pulled to ground by the camera when the shutter button is pressed all the way down and causes the flash to fire if awake. If the flash is not awake, the first shutter activation will wake the flash and the second will fire the flash.

I usually remove the PC-Sync connector on the TF-322 and run my three conductor wire through the hole. Then when done, use a little hot glue to hold the wire stationary so the soldered connections do not break free.

Also, notice on the TF-322 the ground connection is very close to the wake pin. This is a common problem with the TF-322. It will sometimes short the wake pin to ground and cause the flash to not wake.

[lynxlynx.ch]

OK. i think now i understood. thank you very much. So i need to organise another cable for using it on the other port of the flash. because i only have pc port cables ;-)

[-jeff]

That is correct. You need three conductors. I typically use Belden 8451 for flash cables. It has a UV stabilized outer sheath and remains somewhat flexible in cold temperatures.

[lynxlynx.ch]

Dear Jeff,

Thank you very much for this valuable information ! - I have just checked with my local dealer and he can provide me this cable :-).
I also found some 3.5 mm Jack ports in my "spare parts box". I guess i could replace the PC Sync Port with these and make some customised 3.5 jack cable with your suggested Belden 8451 ?

3.5 mm jack port - s.jpg

[-jeff]

It might be a tight fit. If it won't fit, you could make a short pigtail on each TF-322 with a female 3.5mm connector.

[lynxlynx.ch]

That's a very good idea. I'll make a short pigtail if the plug won't fit.
I guess i can make this cable work but i discovered now a much bigger problem: i can't get any 3pin Nikon cable anymore. Do you have a source where you can get this 3pin nikon plugs ? Maybe just only the plug ? i mean between the first flash and the second flash i would solder a cable with a 3.5 mm male jack on one side and the nikon 3pin connector on the other side....
thank you very much for your ideas

[-jeff]

The Nikon three pin connector and cable is getting hard to find. I use the Belden cable to make all my flash cables.